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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE NEW AND THE OLD 



IX 



COOKERY 



— BY — 

y 

MUS. L. M. LUDLUM, 



_ % 



PATERSOX, N. J. 

Craig, Beckmever & Co 
1891 



MAR 21 ]89; 




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4 



GopYPig-hted. 1891 
By 

MRS. L. M. LUDLUM. 



PREFACE 



GOOD and sufficient food, fresh air, sunlight, 
exercise, temperance in all things, and a cheerful 
disposition, are the chief remedies in Nature's Dis- 
pensary. If good food is one of Nature's require- 
ments for perfect health, it should be the study of 
every house-keeper to have all articles of food 
prepared in the best manner, and also daintily gar- 
nished; for often a few bits of green or flowers render 
a dish attractive to a capricious appetite. 

Do not smile, experienced house-keeper, when 
you meet with the old recipes, for it must be re- 
membered that new households are forming every 
day, the managers of which may be inexperienced 
and will need these as well. In justice to the 
writer never remark, as a lady was heard to say: 
"I made that sauce just as I was directed, but it 
was not good;" for, as a matter of fact, the same 
recipe was tried by another with success. Thus it 
is seen the fault is not always in the directions, but 
in carrying them out and itis earnestly recommend- 
ed that, " If at first you don'tsucceed, try, try again." 

L. M. LUDLUM. 

Paterson, N. J. 



THE NEW AND THE OLD 
IN COOKERY. 



I. SOUP. 



Pieces of meat, fruit or vegetable should be 
saved for the soup kettle, but do not allow the ket- 
tle to remain on the stove day after day until the 
mass ferments. Do not free a soup from those brown 
•particles that gather in it from the meat. Make 
stock from beef alone or from chicken bones, turkey 
bones, a soup bone or knuckle of veal. Do not im- 
merse the beef in water to wash it, but use a wet 
cloth. Place in kettle and cover with cold water. 
Allow it to come to a boil; then set the kettle back 
and only allow it to simmer, keeping it closely cov- 
ered. Do not add water after it has come to aboil. 
Add a little water extra to allow for waste. 

STOCK. 
Allow one and a half lbs. of meat and bone to 
one quart of water. Put to boil in cold water, and 
when it comes to a boil let it simmer for five or six 
hours, or until the meat is in rags. Strain through 
a colander and set away to cool, when the grease 
can be easily removed. 



2 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

TO CLARIFY SOUP. 
Use the white of one egg to one quart of stock. 
Slightly beat the white of the egg and stir through 
the cold soup. Place over the fire and do not re- 
move until the soup is transparent. Strain through 
a seive, then through a napkin. 

CLEAR AMBER SOUP. 
A clear soup should be highly seasoned. Clar- 
ify one quart of stock in which has been cooked six 
cloves, six pepper-corns, twenty-four all-spice, 
a blade of mace, one-half bay leaf, onion, carrot, 
celery. 

If a deeper coloring is desired take a little stock 
and boil it down. What is left put in the soup, or 
take a little of the brown crust out of the dripping- 
pan, if you are roasting meat. 

Use sprigs of parsley and long, very slender 
pieces of carrot for garnishing. 

CONSOMME ROYALE. 
Clarify one pint of chicken stock. Season with 
celery, salt and onion. Add chicken breast cut in 
bits. Add parsley and cubes of Consomme Roy- 
ale Custard for garnishing. 

CONSOMME ROYALE CUSTARD. 
Beat lightly three eggs. Add one gill of stock, 
one-third teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful of 



IN COOKERY. 3 

chopped parsley. Pour into a buttered cup to bake, 
placing the cup in a small vessel of boiling water. 
Cut glass could be used to bake in, if placed in a 
vessel of water. 

CREAM SOUPS. 
These should be made of white stock, of can be 
made of the water in which a vegetable is boiled. 

CREAM OF BEET SOUP. 

Cook together one tablespoonful of butter and 

one of flour. Add one pint of milk. Press two 

.boiled beets through a vegetable press and add to 

soup; also a little whipped cream or a beaten egg. 

CELERY SOUP. 

Cut celery in small pieces and boil in salted water 
until tender. To a pint of this stock add a pint of 
cream or milk. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a 
little pan, add a tablespoonful of flour and let cook, 
then add this to the soup for thickening. Salt and 
white pepper. 

Salsify and asparagus can be used in similar 
way. 

CLAM SOUP. 

To one dozen finely chopped clams add one 
quart of water and a very small onion. Melt one 
tablespoonful butter; cook in this one tablespoon- 
ful flour and add to the soup. Before pouring the 



4 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

soup into the tureen place therein two well-beaten 
eggs. Milk may be added if liked. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

Add every kind of vegetable in season to beef 
stock with salt and pepper. This can be strained 
if preferred. 

MUTTON SOUP. 

To the water in which has been boiled a leg of 
mutton, add barley, rice, or noodles; salt and 
pepper. 

BLACK BEAN SOUP. 

Soak one pint of beans twelve hours; cook them 
until tender in two quarts of stock, to which has 
been added a bit of onion, three cloves, salt and 
pepper. 

Press through a vegetable strainer. Melt one 
tablespoonful of butter; cook in this one table- 
spoonful of flour and add to soup. Cut two hard 
boiled eggs in quarters and one lemon in slices; place 
in tureen before pouring in the soup. 

PUREE OF PEAS. 

Cook one pint of green peas and press through 
a strainer; add a little less than one pint of milk. 
Melt one tablespoonful of butter; cook in this one 
tablespoonful of flour and add to soup. Let the 
whole cook two or three minutes, and just before 
serving whipped cream can be added. Salt and 



IN COOKERY. 5 

white pepper. If dried peas are used, soak them 
over night. 

MACARONI SOUP. 

Into one quart of stock put two ounces of maca- 
roni; let it simmer until tender, then cut into rings 
and return to stock. Add salt, pepper and a little 
grated cheese. 

MARROW BALLS. 

To three teaspoonfuls of bread crumbs add one 
of beef marrow; add a little white of egg, parsley, 
grated lemon peel, salt and pepper. Make into 
balls like marbles and drop into soup. When they 
are cooked they will rise to the surface. 
OX-TAIL SOUP. 

Cut one ox-tail through every other joint. Cov- 
er with five pints of cold water and simmer until 
the bones are free from the meat; remove the bones 
and add two small carrots, one onion, one turnip, 
salt and pepper. Thicken with flour if necessary. 
VERMICELLI SOUP. 

To one quart of white stock add one sliced car- 
rot, one sliced onion and one turnip cut in dice. 
Boil until well cooked; add a tablespoonful of ver- 
micelli and boil for half an hour. 

BISQUE OF COD. 
Use four pounds of fresh cod, meat and bone. 
Cut off the best parts and put to boil in sufficient 



6 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

cold water to cover. Place large bones, skin and 
coarse pieces in another kettle to boil, covering 
these with cold water. When done, to one pint of 
fish stock add one Cup of cream or milk, one table- 
spoonful of butter in which is cooked one table- 
spoonful of flour, salt and pepper. Add to this, in 
bits, the fish that was cooked separately. 

TOMATO BISQUE. 
If, after thoroughly straining one can of toma- 
toes, there is not quite one quart, water can be 
added. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; cook in 
it two tablespoonfuls of corn starch; add this to 
soup; also, one pint of milk, salt and pepper. Be- 
fore adding milk put in a pinch of soda. . 

MUSHROOM FORCE MEAT BALLS. 
Peel mushrooms and fry in butter; when cold, 
mince them and add an equal quantity of bread 
crumbs, salt, yolk of one egg, and sufficient milk 
to make of right consistency; make into small balls 
and poach for soup, or fry in boiling fat and serve 
for a garnish. 

CROUTONS. 
Butter slices of bread; cut into small squares and 
brown in oven. 

BEEF TEA. 
On each side of a piece of round steak make as 
many exposed surfaces as possible, by cutting into 



IN COOKERY. 7 

small squares, but not all the way through. Place 
in sauce pan over the fire in cold water to cover. 
In twenty minutes the nutriment will be extracted. 

ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE BEEF TEA. 
Prepare the beef as directed above; cover with 
cold water and let it soak three hours. Then re- 
move the meat, squeezing out the juice, which is 
heated but not allowed to boil. 



II. FISH 



TO COOK HALIBUT, COD OR SALMON. 

Remove skin and cut in pieces for serving; 
season, with salt and pepper; dip in egg and bread 
crumbs and fry in hot fat. 

Make a codfish steak round by fastening the 
ends with skewers; dip in beaten egg, then in bread 
crumbs and cook in saute pan. 

Dip oysters in egg, then in bread crumbs and 
fry. 

Serve Sauce Tartare with fish, in cups made 
from lettuce leaves. 

With fried fish serve some salad that is piquant; 
such as, tomato, cress, cucumber, cauliflower, 
green bean, or asparagus. 



8 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

SHAD ROES. 
Parboil in a covered utensil; then flour and cook 
in a saute pan until done through. As they vary 
in size no time can be given. 

STEWED MUSSELS. 
Wash thoroughly; place in a kettle with one- 
half cup of water or less, just enough to make 
steam which will open the shells. Pick out the 
mussels, saving the liquor, and pick out from each 
a hairy appendage found at the root of the member 
shaped like a tongue. To the mussels add the 
liquor left in the kettle, a pinch of mace, salt if nec- 
essary, and butter rolled in flour to thicken. Let 
it stew for a few minutes. 

FISH AU COURT BOUILLON. 

Chop a carrot, onion, stalk of celery; fry in one 
tablespoonful of butter; add parsley, three cloves, 
one-half dozen peppercorns, three pints of boiling 
water, one scant half pint of vinegar (or more, if 
liked very sour). Let boil twenty minutes; add 
salt. Tie up fish (a blue fish is good) in a napkin 
and simmer until done. Serve Hollandaise sauce 
with the fish. 

Or, 

A similar quantity of Bouillon can betaken, and 
into it, without first wrapping in napkin, put asimll 



IN COOKERY. 9 

fish, or a large one cut in pieces; cook until done 
and serve as stewed fish. 



III. SAUCES. 



CREAM SAUCE. 
USE one-half as much butter as flour; allow the 
butter to melt, then add the flour. Let it cook but 
do not let it brown, then add cream or milk to 
thin it. 

EGG SAUCE. 
Add chopped, hard boiled eggs to cream sauce, 
then add salt and white pepper. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (i). 

A boiling cream sauce poured into one or two 
well-beaten eggs, seasoned with lemon juice and 
salt. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (2). 

One-half cup of butter, one and one-halt table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of 
salt, one-tenth teaspoonful of cayenne, and the 
yolks of four eggs. Heat a bowl slightly; put in 
butter; cream it and add eggs, one at a time, then 
the other ingredients; finally, add one-half cup of 
boiling water. 

Served with boiled fish, asparagus, or cauliflower. 



IO THE NEW AND THE OLD 

BROWN SAUCE. 
Use one-half as much butter as flour; let the 
butter brown, add flour, and when sufficiently cook- 
ed, thin with stock or water. Flavor with some- 
thing piquant. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE. 
Add mushrooms to Brown Sauce. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 
Add strained tomatoes to Brown Sauce. Or 
cook together one-half pint of tomatoes, two cloves, 
six allspice, one bay leaf, one tablespoonful of corn 
starch, and strain. 

TARTARE SAUCE. 
Add capres, chopped pickles or chopped olives, 
to an oil mayonaise. 

TARTAR SAUCE. 
For Baked Heart or Fish. 
Two tablespoonfuls of browned butter, one and 
one-half tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce, 
and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. 

For boiled Lobster, steak or Fish. 

One tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of 

lemon juice, one tablespoonful of parsley. Cream 

the butter, add the lemon juice, then the chopped 

parsley. 



IN COOKERY. I I 

MUSTARD SAUCE. 

Two teaspoonfuls of dry mustard, one tea- 
spoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one tea- 
spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of flour, two 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, or less of lemon juice. 

Mix thoroughly; add one-half cup of boiling 
water and stir over the fire until it thickens, like a 
custard. 

CAPRE SAUCE. 

Add capres to a rich cream sauce. Salt. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 
Put one quart of cranberries into a sauce pan 
with a cup of water; stir, and when thoroughly 
cooked, strain or not, as desired, and add sugar to 
sweeten abundantly. 

BREAD SAUCE, FOR PARTRIDGE. 
Simmer a small onion in a half pint of milk until 
tender. Cut off the crusts from a slice of bread and 
break it in the milk. After the bread is soaked 
beat it smooth with a fork; add ground mace, cay- 
enne, salt and one tablespoonful of butter. The 
onion should be removed before adding the bread. 

LIQUID SAUCE (WINE) FOR PUDDINGS. 
One cup of sugar, one egg } one teaspoonful of 
corn starch, one tablespoonful of butter; add boil- 
ing water, and let it come to a boil. The egg may 



12 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

be omitted. Flavor to suit taste. Salt. 
HARD SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 

One cup of sugar and one-half cup of butter beat- 
en to a cream. 

Wine is preferable for both soft and hard sauce, 
as a flavoring. 

ORANGE SAUCE. 

One teaspoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of 
sugar, and one teaspoonful of corn starch. Salt. 

Melt butter; cook the corn starch in it; add boil- 
ing water, or orange juice, salt, sugar, and grated 
rind of orange. 



IV. SALAD DRESSINGS. 



FRENCH DRESSING. 
Three tablespoonfuls of oil to one tablespoonful 
of vinegar. Salt. 

OIL MAYONAISE. 
One egg yolk, oil, and a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice. Beat the yolk to separate; add oil a few 
drops at a time, beating continuously. The longer 
it is beaten the thicker it gets. Thin with lemon 
juice. Add oil till the right quantity is obtained. 
Everything must be cold. 

SALAD DRESSING STOCK. 
One tablespoonful of vinegar, one egg yolk, one 



IN COOKERY. 13 

teaspoonful of butter or a piece the size of an egg 
yolk. Allow the vinegar to come just to a boil; 
thoroughly beat the egg and pour into the vinegar 
off the fire; stir over the fire till it thickens; add the 
butter whil^ still hot. It can be kept for an indefin- 
ite time. In this state it is called Salad Dressing 
Stock. 

CREAM MAYONAESE. 

Thin Salad Dressing Stock with cream. 

A dressing should be added to a salad just be- 
fore serving. 



V. SALADS. 



POTATO SALAD. 
Use Salad Dressing Stock very thin, and season 
with salt, pepper and onion. 

TOMATO SALAD. 
Pare the tomatoes; remove the centre, thus form- 
ing a cup; fill with pieces of celery and a cream 
mayonaise seasoned with salt, pepper and a dust of 
sugar; set each cup in a leaf of lettuce, or in cress. 

LETTUCE SALAD. 
Cut an onion in halves; with one half wipe out 
the salad bowl, pressing the onion to cause juice to 
exude. Put the lettuce in the bowl; pour ovei; # oil; 



14 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

gently manipulate, then pour over vinegar. Add 
a little salt. Dress this salad just before serving. 

CABBAGE SALAD. 

Add sugar, salt and pepper to Salad Dressing 
Stock, thinned with a little cream. 
RUSSIAN SALAD. 

All vegetables for this should be cooked, but not 
until tender, drained and dried on a napkin. To 
one cup of whole string beans use one-half cup of 
parsnip and carrot cut in pretty shapes, one-half 
cup of shredded lettuce, a little sliced beet and a 
little cold boiled potato. Over this pour a French 
Dressing. 

DEVONSHIRE SALAD. 
Add white pepper, sugar, salt, a very little mus- 
tard to two tablespoonfuls of Salad Dressing Stock, 
thinned with one tablespoonful of cream. Arrange 
curds, or pot cheese, on a bed of cress or lettuce 
and place the dressing in the centre. 
STRAWBERRY SALAD. 
Arrange the berries on a bed of lettuce; touch 
lightly with powdered sugar; place the dressing in 
the centre. Use same dressing as for Devonshire 
Salad. 

ORANGE SALAD. 
Served with Roasted Duck, Goose or Venison. 
Six sour oranges, two tablespoonfuls of Sherry, 



IN COOKERY. 15 

one tablespoonful of maraschino. Pare the fruit 
and slice down, instead of around; pour the wine 
over and let stand two hours. 

SWEET-BKEAD AND CUCUMBER SALAD. 
Parboil and blanch the sweet-bread; break in 
pieces; slice the cucumber, and pour over these a 
French Dressing, seasoned with pepper and salt. 

SHRIMP SALAD. 
Wash shrimps and lay in vinegar two hours, 
then pour over an oil mayonaise to which has been 
added mustard, salt, cayenne and sugar. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

To one-third chopped celery and two-thirds 
chicken, add three tablespoonfuls whipped cream 
and Salad Dressing Stock to moisten. 

Mix dry three teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoon- 
ful mustard, one-fourth teaspoonful pepper and 
add to the salad until seasoned sufficiently. Water 
cress can be used instead of celery. 

OYSTER SALAD. 
Boil one-half pint oysters in their own liquor un- 
til the edges curl. Make a sauce of two well- 
beaten eggs, one-quarter cup of cream, one-quarter 
cup vinegar. Beatwellafter adding cream and again 
after adding vinegar. Place over the fire and 
cook till like a mayonaise dressing. While warm 



1 6 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

add one tablespoonful of butter, a little salt, pepper, 
mustard, and celery salt, if liked. Pour over the 
oysters and set away to get thoroughly cold. 
LOBSTER SALAD. 

Three teaspoonfuls salt, one-quarter teaspoon- 
ful cayenne pepper, and one teaspoon r ul mustard. 

Mix the above and keep dry for seasoning salads. 
Add some of this seasoning with a little sugar to 
an Oil Mayonaise and mix thoroughly with the 
lobster. 

A DELICIOUS SALAD 

Can be made of vegetables left from a dinner. 
Like this: stewed carrots, green peas and potato 
(not mashed potato). Do not use as much of car- 
rot as of other vegetables. The carrots should be 
cut in dice and the potato sliced. Season with salt, 
pepper, finely minced onion and a very little syrup 
from pickled peaches. Then add a French Dress- 
ing. This salad should be heated just before serv- 
ing. Arrange leaves of lettuce on a flat dish and 
place the heated salad in the centre. 

CHEESE SALAD. 

One cup of cooked veal chopped, one table- 
spoonful of cooked tongue chopped, one and one- 
half cups of Parmesan cheese. 

Marinate the veal and tongue by pouring over 
it a French Dressing (one tablespoonful of oil and 



IN COOKERY. 17 

one of vinegar) and letting - stand several hours. 
Then add cheese and an Oil Mayonaise to moisten 
the whole. 

Wild Roses, Buttercups, Daisies or Nasturtium 
blossoms are pretty for garnishing salad dishes. 

The hard boiled white or yolk of an egg when 
pressed through a vegetable strainer, makes a pret- 
ty garnish for any dish. The egg is prettier over 
something green. 



VI. ENTREES, LUNCHEON OR TEA DISHES. 



CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

Two tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoonfuls 
of flour, one pint of cream, or white stock, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of 
cayenne, one-half teaspoonful of celery salt, one 
tablespoonful of grated onion. 

Melt the butter, add flour and let cook; add cream 
and other ingredients. The croquettes can be 
made wholly of chicken, or a combination of chick- 
en, veal, oysters, sweet bread and crab. 

The meat is chopped, then thoroughly combine 
all the ingredients. Make into shape about 
two and one-half inches long, round and 
flat at each end. Roll, first in sifted bread crumbs, 
then in beaten egg; again, in bread crumbs and 
3- 



15 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

fry in boiling fat. The first rolling in bread crumbs 
may be omitted. 

Serve with Tomato Sauce. 

DEVILED LOBSTER. 

Mix to a paste boiled lobster; season with mus- 
tard, cayenne and sugar; put into scallop shells and 
dust bread crumbs over the top; brown in the oven. 
ESCAL LOPED CLAMS. 

Drain and chop the clams; mix with a cream 
sauce; put into scallop shells, or into one dish; sift 
bread crumbs over and brown in oven. 

Proceed in same manner with any cold fish or 
meat. 

CASSEROLE OF MEAT. 

One cup of rice, not washed, boiled in hot water 
ten minutes; butter a bowl thickly and line with the 
rice. One-half pound of any or several kinds of cold 
meat chopped fine, one egg, two tablespoonfuls of 
cracker crumbs, one tablespoonful of chopped 
onion, one teaspoonful of Worcestershire Sauce, 
salt, pepper and all moistened with stock or milk. 

Steam three quarters of an hour and serve with 
Tomato Sauce. 

CODFISH BALLS, WITH MUSTARD SAUCE. 

Pick in pieces one half pint uncooked salt bone- 
less cod, removing any bones there maybe. Have 
pared and cut in pieces, about the size of half an 



IN COOKERY. 19 

egg, one pint of potatoes. Place the potatoes in 
the kettle first, then the fish; cover with boiling 
water and let boil until the potatoes are tender. 
Drain off the water and mash. Add one teaspoon- 
ful butter and one egg\ drop from spoon into boil- 
ing fat and let brown. Do not form into balls but 
leave each spoonful as rough as it may be. Serve 
on a bed of water cress or on a napkin. 
BREADED CHOPS. 

Wrap the loose end around the chop and fasten 
with a skewer; season with salt and pepper; cover 
with bread crumbs, beaten egg, then in bread 
crumbs again, and immerse in boiling fat. The fat 
may be some cooler for chops than for croquettes. 
Eight or tea minutes to cook. 

Serve with Lyonaise Potatoes. 

BROWN SAUCE TO SERVE WITH BREADED CHOPS. 

Make a Brown Sauce as has been described 
and add two tablespoonfuls capres, chopped 
pickles and parsley mixed. Sufficient Worcester- 
shire Sauce to flavor. 

MUTTON CHOPS A LA MAINTENON. 

Each chop is cut thick and has the larger end 
split open. For a stuffing to put in this incis- 
ion take: four tablespoonfuls of chopped mush- 
rooms, one tablespoonful chopped onion, one table- 
spoonful butter, one tablespoonful flour, three 



20 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

tablespoonfuls of stock, one teaspoonful salt and one- 
fifth teaspoonful of pepper. Prepare this by melt- 
ing the butter and browning the flour in it, then 
add stock and other ingredients. After this has 
cooked, add one-quarter teaspoonful Worcestershire 
Sauce and one tablespoonful chopped parsley and 
set away to cool. Then put one teaspoonful into 
each chop and broil. Serve with Maitre d' Hotel 
Potatoes. 

VOL-AU-VENT OF CHICKEN. 
Cut out of puff paste or out of pie crust an oval 
shaped piece; mark a smaller oval in the center of 
this to remove after baking. Have cold chopped 
chicken, veal or sweet-bread or all of these heated 
in a well seasoned cream sauce; fill the Vol-au-vent 
after it is baked and the center removed, with this 
mixture, when the cap or the piece removed can be 
replaced. Can use tea biscuit dough in the same 
way. 

BREAD PATTIES. 

Prepare circles of bread for patties by cutting out 
with a cake cutter; then with a smaller cutter 
make an incision half through the slice and pick 
out the bread inside this incision forming a pocket, 
into which put the filling after toasting or frying 
the bread. 

For the filling, melt one tablespoonful of butter; 



IX COOXERY. 21 

cook in this one tablespoonful flour; thin with milk 
or white stock. Heat cold chopped veal, chicken 
or lamb in this sauce; add two tablespoonfuls chop- 
ped mushrooms and a little Worcestershire Sauce. 

CREAM TOAST. 

Cut the bread in any shape best liked and toast. 
Melt one tablespoonful of butter, stir in it one table- 
spoonful flour; then add nearly one pint of milk and 
cream, saltspoonful curry powder and pour over 
the toast. 

Heat cooked chicken, or hard boileJeggs sliced, 
in the sauce just described. 

JELLIED VEAL OR CHICKEN. 

Wet a plain mould, a small bread tin can be 
used; lay around it neatly, slices of lemon, orange 
and hard boiled egg. 

Then seasoning the meat with salt and pepper, 
fill the mould with meat, egg, lemon and orange. 
Have the broth in which the meat was cooked re- 
duced by boiling down, to a quantity that will cov- 
er the meat. Season this broth and add it to the 
gelatine which has been previously soaked in cold 
water and pour over the meat; cover with a tin lid 
and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an 
hour. 

Slice when cold. 



22 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

The quantities are: one lemon or orange, three 
eggs, meat from one chicken or the same quantity 
of veal, one-half ounce gelatine. 

BONED CHICKEN. 

Have a chicken one year old, because the skin is 
firmer. Open on the back and dress. Then re- 
move bones, scraping with a Hull knife and cutting 
with a sharp knife. Remove the bones from the 
legs by cutting off abouc one inch of the leg, 
then from the inside scrape and pull out the bone. 
Cut off the tip of the wing, and from the inside re- 
move the bone, except the second joint which is left 
to retain the shape. Having the chicken boned, 
first lay in the pieces of breast, using salt and pep- 
per plentifully. Then put in two whole hard boiled 
eggs, six allspice, bits of tongue, one half dozen 
mushrooms, enough cold, chopped chicken or veal to 
fill all vacancies, and two tablespoonfuls Aspic jelly. 
Do not fill full but leave room for expansion when 
boiling. Sew it up; tie in a napkin; place in the 
kettle with a saucer underneath the chicken to pre- 
vent burning; cover with soup stock and cook un- 
til tender, two or three hours. Slice cold. 

LAMB TONGUE IN ASPIC JELLY. 
To make soup stock darker in color put a piece 
of beef prepared as for beef tea into a warm frying- 
pan, and cover. Juice will exude from the meat, 



IN COOKERY. 23 

then remove the meat and let the juice dry on the 
pan, when you can add a little water; then put 
this colored water into the stock. Now take one 
pint of highly seasoned soup stock (season as in 
Amber Soup) clarified and strained; heat to boil- 
ing and pour into gelatine (one-third of a box) 
which has been previously soaked in cold water. 

Wet a mould; cut in fancy shapes slices of hard 
boiled egg, bits of ham, slices of cold tongue or a 
whole tongue and pcur over the whole the dissolv- 
ed gelatine in the stock. 

BROWN KD SWEET-BREADS. 

Boil and put in cold water to make whiter and 
firmer. Dip in beaten egg and bread crumbs and 
cook in hot fat. Season with salt and pepper first. 

BAKED CALF'S HEART, WITH TARTAR SAUCE. 
Stuff with seasoned bread crumbs; cover the 
opening with buttered paper: tie up and secure the 
string with a skewer. Bake twenty minutes and 
serve with Tartar Sauce. 

DEVILED EGGS. 
Boil the eggs twenty minutes; cut in two; re- 
move yolks and cut off the tip at each end of the 
egg to make it stand without toppling. Mix to 
a paste the yolks, melted butter and oil, and season 
with salt, pepper, vinegar and German mustard to 
taste, then refill the pieces of white, and set each 



24 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

half in a leaf of lettuce. 

BAKED SWEET-BREAD. 

Lard the sweet bread; place in boiling salted 
water and boil from ten minutes to one and one- 
half hours. Blanch, by placing in ice water. 
Then bake. 

Heart sweet-breads are preferred to throat. 

OMELET. 
Beatsix eggs thoroughly, yolks and whites separ- 
ately; add one cup of milk, and pepper and salt. 
Put a piece of butter in the frying pan and when 
very hot pour in the mixture. Cover and do not 
stir. Should cook in ten minutes. 

LOBSTER CROQUETTES. 
Mix with boiled lobster, salt, pepper and one- 
quarter as much bread crumbs as you have lobster. 
Make into shape; dip in egg (beaten) and bread 
crumbs and cook in boiling fat. 

CLAM FRITTERS. 
Cut up the clams; add a very little juice, one 
tablespoonful milk, flour to hold the clams together, 
one egg and sprinkle over this a pinch of dry 
soda. 

TURKEY SCALLOP. 
Chop cold roast turkey or chicken, or both, or 
veal. Put in a pudding dish a layer of bread 



IN COOKERY. 25 

crumbs moistened with milk, then a layer of turkey, 
salt, pepper, and bits of butter if there is no gravy; 
then a layer of crumbs and another of turkey un- 
til all is used. The last layer is crumbs moistened 
with milk, with bits of butter. Place in the oven 
covered until cooked through, then remove the 
cover to brown. 

SALMON CROQUETTES. 
Mix with canned salmon one-quarter as much 
bread crumbs and mashed potato as salmon. 
Make into shape: dip in beaten egg and bread 
crumbs and fry in boiling fat. 

BEEF KIDNEY HASH. 

Cut the kidney in pieces removing all fat: put 
in cold water with one teaspoonful salt and soak 
over night, then put into a kettle with one quart of 
cold water and a small onion; boil it until tender, 
changing the water once during the boiling. 

After the kidney is cooked, chop, but not too 
fine; put into a kettle; add some of the liquor in 
which the kidney was boiled, salt, pepper, a little 
butter, curry and sprinkle over a little dry flour to 
make it of a creamy consistency. The hash should 
not be watery and yet not too thick. 

MACARONI CROQUETTES. 
Fut the macaroni into boiling salted water and 
cook until tender; drain off the watter; chop; add 
4 



26 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

a rich Cream Sauce to make of a consistency to 
handle and add grated cheese. Make into shape; 
dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in 
boiling- fat. Macaroni left from a dinner can be 
used. 

Meat croquettes can be made of any or a com- 
bination of all kinds of meat: roast meat of any 
kind, chops, steak, sausage, ham and tongue. The 
greater the variety the better. Season with salt, 
pepper and onion; gravy, cream or milk can be 
added to moisten, and mashed or chopped potato. 
Make into any desired shape; dip in egg, then in 
bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat, Of course, the 
meat must be chopped fine, for which a meat cut- 
ter is most expeditious and satisfactory. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

Press the boiled potatoes through a vegetable 
strainer, for this is said to prevent the croquette 
from breaking open while cooking. Add one ta- 
blespoonful butter, salt, yolk of one egg, and one 
tablespoonful chopped parsley. Dip in beaten egg 
then in bread crumbs and fry in boiling fat. 

The white of an egg alone can be used to* dip 
the croquettes in. One tablespoonful of water can 
be added to one egg. 

RICE CROQUETTES. 

Boil one-half cup rice in one pint milk or water, 



IN COOKERY. 27 

milk is preferred because richer. When the rice is 
tender add one tablespoonful of butter, salt and 
yolk of one egg; dip in egg then in bread crumbs 
and fry in boiling fat. For economy always use 
the white for the outside when the yolk is used in 
tiie croquettes. 

LYONAISK POTATOES. 
Cook one tablespoonful sliced onion in hot but- 
ter until brown, then slice cold boiled potatoes in 
this and let brown. Just before serving, add one 
tablespoonful chopped parsley. 

JULIENNE POTATOES. 
Cut raw potatoes in slices with a fluted knife and 
fry in boiling fat. 

GERMAN POTATO STEW. 
Pare and cut in large dice, six potatoes; cook in 
white soup stock or in water; add salt, pepper, two 
cloves, laurel leaf, onion and parsley. When 
cooked, drain and pour over them a Cream Sauce 
to which has been added an egg yolk. 

MAITRE D' HOTEL POTATOES. 
Cut raw potatoes in fancy shapes; cook in boil- 
ing, salted water until tender; drain and pour over 
them Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. 

POTATO SOUFFLE. 
Served with Chops a la Maintenon. 
Bake any number of medium sized potatoes; cut 



28 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

in halves lengthwise; remove the potato and mix 
with it one tablespoonful butter, one tablespoonful 
milk, whites of two eggs beaten, salt and pepper. 
Refill the potato shells and place in the oven to 
brown. 

When eggs are poached put a little lemon juice 
or vinegar in the water to make the white firm. 

TO BROIL STEAK. 
Heat the broiler and grease it. Put the steak 
in the broiler and hold it close to the flame until 
brown on one side; turn and brown on the other 
side. Then turn every ten seconds. Eight min- 
utes will cook it rare. Do not allow the butcher 
to cut the bone in the steak. 

HAMBURG STEAK. 
This can be made from tough ends of steak. 
Chop fine one pound of beef and one short slice 
salt bacon. Add one tablespoonful onion juice. 
Make into flat cakes and roll in flour. Have ready 
some hot fat, lard and butter, and thoroughly brown 
these cakes on each side. Then cover skillet with 
a lid and cook gently until the meat is tender. 
For the sauce, remove the meat and pour off some 
fat if there is too much and add one-half cup hot 
water, one-half cup tomatoes, pepper, salt, clove if 
liked, and Worcestershire Sauce. If too thin add a 
little flour. 



IN COOKERY. 29 

ESCALLOPED SALMON. 

Mix with the salmon a Cream Sauce; put into 
baking shells or in one dish, season with salt, cay- 
enne pepper; dust over bread crumbs and brown 
in the oven. 

GOOLOASH. 

Put into a kettle one tablespoonful butter; in this 
when hot cook a small onion (sliced) until brown; 
add one pound of uncooked beef cut in small 
squares and well floured; one-half pint boiling 
water and more if too thick when cooked. 
Add sliced carrot, parsley, salt, pepper and an all- 
spice about one hour before serving. Should cook 
very slowly and long. Two hours or more. 

CLAM CHOWDER. 

Six small squares of salt pork, fifteen clams, three 
large potatoes, one large onion, one large tomato, 
one carrot, parsley, pepper, one and one-half cups 
of milk. 

Fry out the pork and add one and one-half pints 
water, the finely chopped vegetables, and an hour 
before serving add herbs, if liked, and pepper. Sep- 
arate the clams chopping the hard part and add the 
soft part whole about twenty minutes before serv- 
ing. Put the heated milk in the tureen. 
STEWED RABBIT. 

Put in a kettle two tablespoonfuls butter; when 



30 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

very hot, slice into it one small onion; when brown, 
add the rabbit cut in pieces and well floured. 
Brown each piece as much as possible then add one 
pint of boiling water. When nearly done add a 
small carrot sliced, parsley, laurel leaf, salt, pepper 
and two allspice, and let simmer until thoroughly 
cooked. 

The rabbit should be soaked in salted cold 
water two or three hours. 

BOSTON BAKED BEANS. 
Soak one quart of white beans over night. In 
the morning, put them in a bean jar, having wash- 
ed them, with one-half pound salt bacon, two table- 
spoonfuls of molasses, or more if liked sweeter, and 
cover with boiling water. Cover and place in a 
moderate oven all day and all night. More water 
is added as it cooks away and salt is added if the 
bacon does not make the beans salt enough. They 
can be eaten after baking all day, but leaving in 
the oven all night adds to the brown color. Do 
not stir them. Have sufficient water to have the 
beans moist but not swimming. 

STEWED LAMB CHOPS, WITH PEAS. 

Remove the skin from the chops; place in sauce 

pan, cover with boiling water, add onion, salt, and 

pepper. Simmer until tender. Remove and put 

peas in gravy ten minutes. Place the chops in 



IN COOKERY. 31 

center of the dish and the peas around the meat. 
The gravy should be reduced one-half. 

RAGOUT OF MUTTON OR VEAL. 
Cut in small pieces all remnants of cold roast veal 
or lamb; add hot water to cover, one handful of 
spaghetti, tablespoonful rice, half can tomatoes, 
salt and pepper, a laurel leaf and two allspice. 
Let simmer one hour. 

ESCALLOPLD OYSTERS. 
Put a layer of bread crumbs in a baking dish, 
then a layer of oysters, more bread crumbs then 
more oysters, continuing until the dish is full. 
Melt one tablespoonful butter; cook in it one 
tablespoonful flour; thin with one tea cup of 
milk or cream. Let cook until this mixture thick- 
ens, then pour over the oysters; add pepper and a 
layer of bread crumbs. Place in the oven fifteen 
minutes or until brown and cooked through. 

CREAMED OYSTERS. 
Allow one pint of oysters to boil in their own 
liquor until the edges curl; remove from this li- 
quor and place in a dish. Melt one tablespoonful 
butter; cook in it one tablespoonful flour; thin with 
milk or cream, not quite a cupful, making of the 
consistency of cream. Add pepper, one quarter 
teaspoonful mustard, one tablespoonful chopped 



32 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

parsley, pour this over the oysters and stir through 
them. 



VII. BREAD. 



WHEAT BREAD. 

Use one-half pint milk an_i one-half pint boiling 
water. To this add sufficient flour to make a thin 
batter; then add one cake compressed yeast dis- 
solved in a little water; one teaspoonful salt and add 
flour until the dough cannot be stirred, using a 
wooden spoon. Turn out on molding board and 
knead ten or fifteen minutes or until air bubbles 
are seen on the surface. Butter the inside of a 
bowl and place the dough into it, buttering over 
the top of the dough, and, covering with a tin lid 
or a napkin, place to rise in a temperature of 75 to 
80 degrees for three hours. Make into loaves and 
set to rise one hour, a 1 I bake in a temperature of 
375 degrees. The oven should be very hot at 
first making the crust form in ten or fifteen minutes. 

The same dough can be made into any shape 
desired, into a loaf, rolls, or into a braid by cut- 
ting a piece of dough in three pieces and rolling 
into strips between -the hands and the board, then 
braiding these strips. The dough can be made in- 
to buns by putting small pieces to rise in muffin 



IN COOKERY. 33 

rings, an J before putting in the oven cut a cross in 
the top of each. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. 
Proceed in same manner as with wheat bread, 
but with entire wheat flour in place of white flour. 

TEA BISCUIT. 
One quart sifted flour, two teaspoonmls baking 
powder, two tablespoonfuls butter or lard, one 
glass of milk, and salt. Stir the powder and salt 
through the flour, reserving a portion to use after 
the dough is turned out on a moulding board, and 
use no more than the quart. Mix the butter 
through the flour; add milk; roll out; cut round and 
bake in a very hot oven. 

COFFEE ROLLS. 
Melt one-quarter cup of butter in one cup scald- 
ing milk. To this add one tablespoonful sugar, 
scant teaspoonful salt, one quarter cake of com- 
pressed yeast dissolved in one cup cold water, four 
cups flour, the beaten white of one egg. Let rise 
over night; take off pieces of dough and roll in 
strips the size of your finger and about six inches 
long. Let rise one-half hour and bake twenty-five 
minutes. 

CORN BREAD. 
One teacup of corn meal, one teacup of flour, 
5 



34 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

one teaspoonful baking powder, one teaspoonful 
salt, one egg, one pint sweet milk and one table- 
spoonful of melted butter. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

Two cups graham flour, two cups corn meal, 
one scant cup molasses, three cups sour milk, 
three teaspoonfuls soda and two teaspoonfuls salt. 

Mix and put into a buttered mould or tin pail 
and steam four hours. 

Serve with fish dinner. 

A towl over the steamer under the cover ab- 
sorbs the moisture and the top of pudding will be 
dry. 

GRAHAM CAKES. 
Two cups brown flour, one cup white flour, three 
cups sour milk, one teaspoonful soda dissolved in 
hot water, one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful 
lard and one or two eggs. If sweet milk is used 
in place of sour milk, use two teaspoonfuls Royal 
Baking Powder in place of soda. 

WHIGS. 

One pint of milk, one-quarter pound butter, one- 
quarter pound sugar, three eggs, salt, one pound 
flour, one-quarter cake of yeast. 

Let rise over night. Can bake this in patty-pans 



IN COOKERY. 3 5 

and eat while hot, or can add two pounds flour in- 
stead of one; let rise over night, then make into 
the form of biscuit; let rise again and bake. When 
made into biscuit shape, can be eaten hot or cold. 

MUFFINS. 
One egg, one cup of milk, two cups of flour 
(scant), one teaspoonful baking powder, one tea- 
spoonful sugar, and salt. 

RICE CAKES. 
Two cups cold boiled rice, two cups milk, one 
e S£' two teaspoonfuls sugar, one teaspoonful bak- 
ing powder and one and one-half cups of flour. 
Bake on a griddle. 

SOUR MILK MUFFINS. 
One pint of thick sour milk, one pint sweet milk. 
Salt, flour to make it stiff enough to dip with a 
spoon and two even teaspoonfuls soda. To be 
baked on the griddle immediately. 

C.REEN CORN CAKES. 

Grate the corn from one-half dozen ears, or cut 
it off and put through a meat cutter, which is the 
quicker way. To this quantity of corn, add two 
eggs, salt, two tablespoonfuls milk and one-half 
cup flour. This quantity will make twenty-five 
cakes. 

Bake on a griddle. 



VIII. CAKE. 



PORCUPINE CAKE. 

One cup sugar, one half cup butter and lard 

mixed, one cup cold water, two cups flour, through 

which has been stirred one and one-half teaspoon- 

fuls Royal Baking Powder, and one well beaten 

egg- 
Just before serving pour the following cream 

over it, after having stuck one cup of soft almonds 

over the top of the cake: 

Cream for Cole. 
One pint of milk heated to boiling; add one-half 

cup sugar mixed with one tablespoonful corn 

starch, one Ggg, salt and flavoring. 

SPONGE CAKE, (i) * 
Two cups of sugar, three-fourths cup hot 
water, one and three-fourths cups flour, one tea- 
spoonful Royal Baking Powder, three eggs and 
flavoring. Beat yolks of eggs and sugar thor- 
oughly; add the water gradually; then add the 
flour which has been sifted with the baking pow- 
der. Stir in lightly at the last, the well beaten 
whites of the eggs and bake in a hot oven. 



IN COOKERY. 37 

SPONGE CAKE. (2) 

One pound sugar, one-half pound flour, ten eggs, 
grated rind and juice of one lemon. 

Beat the whites of the eggs until they will stand, 
then add sugar. Beat the yolks very thoroughly 
and add lemon. Combine the two, then add flour, 
stirring only enough to mix the flour. Two per- 
sons are required to make this cake successfully, 
one to beat the whites and the other the yolks. 

CRULLERS. 
One and one-half cups sugar, one-half cup but- 
ter, one cup sweet milk, three eggs, one small nut- 
meg, one and one-half teaspoonfuls Royal Baking 
Powder, sufficient flour to roll out soft. Do not 
add all the flour at once; keep adding as some 
dough is taken to roll out. Two pounds of lard 
are required to cook them. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE, WITH CARAMEL FILLING. 

One and one-half cups of sugar, one half cup 
butterand lard mixed, one-half cup cold water, two 
cups of flour, two eggs, one teaspoonful (not heap- 
ing) of soda, cut up one-half cake of Baker's Choc- 
olate in one-half cup of milk and let dissolve; cook 
in it one-half teaspoonful corn starch; then add 
while it is hot to the cake dough, thoroughly mix- 
ing it. Flavor with vanilla and bake in two layers. 



38 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

Caramel Filling. 

Put over the fire in a granite vessel two cups of 
sugar and two-thirds of a cup of milk. After it 
commences to cook, let simmer ten minutes with- 
out stirring. After taken from the fire, stir as it 
thickens; flavor and put between the cakes and on 
the top. 

CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE. 

One cup powdered sugar, one-half cup butter, 
one-half cup milk, one and one-half cups flour 
(Hecker's prepared flour), three eggs, flavoring. 

To prepare the chocolate : Cut up one and one- 
half ounces of unsweetened chocolate in a little 
milk, (perhaps one-quarter cup of milk); add seven 
teaspoonfuls sugar and one teaspoonful corn- 
starch; place over thefire rind let the chocolate dis- 
solve then cook until the mixture thickens. 

CREAM CAKE. 
One cup sugar, one-half cup butter, one-half cup 
water, two cups flour, through which is stirred one 
teaspoonful Royal Baking Powder. Bake in 
three layers. 

Cream for Cake. 
One-half pint milk, heated to boiling. Mix to- 
gether one-quarter cup sugar, one tablespoonful 
corn starch and one egg; add this to the boiling- 
milk and let cook a few minutes. Make the cream 



IN COOKERY. 39 

before the cake, then the cake can be spread as 
soon as baked. 

A1PLE EILLING EOR CAKE. 
Four large apples grated. Juice of two lemons 
and grated rind of one. Two cups of sugar. 

ORANGE EILLING. 

Grated rind, juice and some pulp of two oranges, 
grated rind and juice of one lemon, one cup water, 
one small teaspoonful corn starch. Cook until 
this mixture thickens. 

MOLLASSES CAKE. 

One cup of molasses, two tablespoonfuls butter 
or drippings, one-half cup water, one teaspoonful 
cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful cloves, two cups of 
flour, or less, as one flour will thicken more than 
another. 

A chocolate cake can be made of this by stirring 
through the dough two ounces of Baker's chocolate 
grated. 

GINGER SNAPS. 

One cup molasses, one cup sugar, one cup but- 
ter and lard mixed, two even tablespoonfuls ginger, 
two tablespoonfuls vinegar, four tablespoonfuls hot 
water, two even tablespoonfuls soda, salt, sufficient 
flour to roll out soft. Bake in a quick oven. 

FRUIT CAKE. 
Three pounds sugar, three pounds butter, twen- 



40 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

ty-four eggs, three pounds of flour, four and one- 
half pounds of currants, six pounds raisins, one 
ounce each of mace, cinnamon and nutmeg, one- 
quarter ounce cloves, two tablespoonfuls of ginger, 
two gills of wine, and one and one-half pounds of 
citron. 

Should bake slowly. 

COCOANUT JUMBLES. 

One-half pound butter, one pound sugar; five 
eggs, one-half pound flour, one large or two small 
grated cocoanuts. 

Line a baking pan with oiled paper, drop this 
mixture on it and bake. 

SUGAR JUMBLES. 

One-half pound butter, one-half pound sugar, 
two eggs, one-quarter teaspoonful or less of baking 
soda and flour. 

Do not roll out, but take off pieces of dough; pat 
them out into oblong shape; sprinkle crushed 
sugar over the top and bake. 

WHITE FRUIT CAKE. 

One teacup butter, one coffeecup sugar, one 
coffeecup flour, four eggs, one pound raisins, one 
pound currants and one quarter pound citron. 

SNOW BALLS. 
Six eggs, a quantity of sugar equal to the weight 
of the eggs; a quantity of flour equal to one-half 



IN COOKERY. 41 

the weight of the eggs; leave out two yolks; one 
teaspoonful baking powder, add grated rind [ and 
juice of one lemon; bake in small cups; cover over 
all sides except the top with a thin icing and 
sprinkle over grated cocoanut. 

NUT CAKE. 

One cup of butter, two cups sugar, three cups 
flour, one-half cup milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful 
baking powder and one pint hickory nut meats. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add milk, flour, 
through which is stirred the baking powder, and 
add lastly the well beaten eggs. The nut meats 
are chopped before adding. 



IX. DESSERT. 



ORANGE ICE. 

COOK together one-half pint of sugar and one 
pint of water; add the juice of six oranges, the 
grated rind of two, the juice of two lemons, and 
freeze in an ice cream freezer. If not convenient 
to use a freezer simply pack the vessel holding the 
liquid in another vessel with salt and ice, placing a 
paper over the whole. 

If the ice is desired very light, add the beaten 
whites of two eggs. If desired firm, add one table- 
6 



42 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

spoonful gelatine to one quart liquid; if granular do 
not cook the syrup. 

TO MAKE ORANGE OR LEMON ZEST. 
Rub loaf sugar into the rind of orange or lemon, 
and it will absorb the oil from the rind. This 
sugar can then be used for flavoring. 

CHEESE AU GRATIN. 

Beat the whites and yolks of four eggs separately. 
Beat the whites on a large platter with something 
that takes up the whole of the egg at once; pour 
the milk (two tablespoonfuls) into the yolks and 
add to the whites, then add one-half cup of grated 
cheese, salt and cayenne. Bake carefully, not 
moving the pan. 

COFFEE MOUSSE. 

One-third box gelatine, one pint of made coffee, 
two tablespoonfuls sugar or more and one tea- 
spoonlul vanilla. Dissolve the gelatine in cold 
water; pour the hot coffee over it; as it cools, beat 
with an egg beater; add sugar. When so stiff it 
cannot be beaten put in a mould; pack in salt and 
ice; let remain packed six hours or it can be put 
in a freezer. 

Serve with whipped cream. 

STRAWBERRY MOUSSE. 
For Strawberry Mousse, or Raspberry Mousse, 
use the juice of the fruit instead of coffee. 



IN COOKERY. 43 

PINEAPPLE SHERBET. 

One pint juice of pineapple, one tablespoonful 
sweet wine, one tablespoonful orange juice, one 
teaspoonful lemon juice and sugar to make sweet. 

Shavedjice is added. 

BAVARIAN CREAM. 
Take a little less than one pint of syrup of can- 
ned pineapple, one teaspoonful lemon juice, and 
when this comes to a boil, pour it over one-quarter 
of a box of gelatine, which has been previously 
dissolved in cold water. When this mixture is 
cold, beat with an egg beater until too stiff to turn. 
Add powdered sugar and one-third of bulk in 
whipped cream. 

FRUIT SALAD. 
Place in a dish a layer of sliced oranges, a layer 
of sliced bananas, sugar, a layer of grated pineap- 
ple, and repeat this; then pour over the whole a 
thin lemon jelly. 

MACEDOINE. 
Put the preceding in a form with less fruit and a 
thicker jelly. Use one-third of a box of gelatine, 
cup of sugar and one-half cup of water, let sugar and 
water boil ten minutes; add dissolved gelatine, juice 
of two lemons and six oranges. Let come to a 
boil and pour over fruit in the mold. 



44 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

NESSELRODE PUDDING. 

One quart milk, yolks of eight eggs, salt, one 
cup candied fruit (cherries and pineapple), one cup 
of figs, one pint o*f Italian chestnuts, one cup of 
cream, caramel flavoring. 

Put the milk over the fire to boil: then pour it 
over the lightly beaten eggs; return to the boiler 
and cook until it coats the spoon. The fruit is 
improved by soaking in some sweet wine two or 
three hours. Chop the figs and cook them in a 
syrup made of one-half cup sugar and one cup 
water. The chestnuts must be boiled and put 
through a vegetable strainer. This whole mixture 
is then frozen. 

ORANGE BASKET. 

Cut through the rind and pulp of an orange 
lengthwise of the layers, leaving a narrow strip 
through the middle, forming the handle of the 
basket. Remove the layers of orange, which can 
be broken up and returned to the basket or it can 
be filled with a marmalade. 

FRUIT FRITTERS WITH ORANGE SAUCE. 
Yolk of one Ggg, two tablespoonfuls flour, one 
tablespoonful water, salt and beaten white last. 
Serve with Orange Sauce. 

BLANC MANGE. 
Heat one pint of milk to boiling point; add two 



IN COOKERY. 45 

table spoonfuls sugar, two tablespoonfuls cornstarch 
and one egg thoroughly mixed; let cook until it 
thickens; pour into a mould previously wet. Serve 
with a tart jelly. 

OMELET SOUFFLE. 

Whites of five eggs, and yolks of three eggs; 
beat whites and yolks separately, adding the juice 
and grated rind of an orange, a teaspoonful corn- 
starch and salt mixed, before beating; then add 
one tablespoonful of sugar. 

Time to bake, eight to ten minutes in a gas 
stove or sixteen minutes in a range: must be baked 
and served immediately or the puddingwill collapse. 
Can be baked in one tin or in fancy individual cups. 
No sauce. 

STEAMED FRUIT PUDDING. 

One pint of flour scant, one teaspoonful Royal 
Baking Powder, one-half teaspoonful salt, one 
tablespoonful of butter or lard and one-half glass of 
milk. To the flour, add powder, salt and lard or 
butter; add milk, stirring with a spoon. Mix 
it moist and as quickly as possible. Do not allow 
the making of the pudding to occupy more than 
one minute. Put a layer of dough in the bottom 
of the steamer, on that a layer of fruit, more dough, 
then more fruit. Steam one-half hour or less. 

This pudding can be put in a tin basin and 
placed in the steamer. Any small tin vessel can 



46 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

be used. Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, 
Huckleberries, Cherries or Peaches used as the 
fruit in this pudding make a delicious dessert 
served with Hard Sauce. Sufficient for four dishes. 

WAFFLES. 

Scant pint of flour, heaping teaspoonful baking 
powder, tablespoonful melted butter, three eggs 
whites and yolks beaten separately, one pint milk. 
Mix the powder through the flour, add milk, egg 
yolks, butter and the whites last. Do not thor- 
oughly mix the whites through the batter. Bake 
in waffle irons or can bake like griddle cakes. 

Served with syrup or cream and sugar. 

KARTAUSER KLOSE. 

Cut baker's bread in thick slices; remove the 
crusts; cut in any shape, squares or triangles. 
Beat an egg; add one cup milk, salt, tablespoonful 
sugar, nutmeg to flavor. Soak the pieces of bread 
in this mixture until it is used up. The bread must 
be moistened through but not enough to make the 
pieces break. Roll each piece in egg and bread 
crumbs and fry in boiling fat. The bread should 
be prepared two or three hours before rolling in 
egg and bread crumbs. Served with liquid wine 
sauce or with powdered cinnamon and sugar. 
ANGEL FOOD. 

Put pieces of sponge cake or lady-fingers in a 



TN COOKERY. 47 

dish the pudding is to be served from. Pour over 
a very little Sherry wine. Make a custard of one- 
half pint of milk, one egg, one tablespoonful corn- 
starch, two tablespoonfuls sugar. Let the milk boil; 
add sugar, cornstarch and egg mixed thoroughly; 
let cook until the mixture thickens and pour over 
the cake. A good way to use up stale cake. 

STRAWBERRY SHORT CAKE. 
One quart of flour, two teaspoonfuls Royal Bak- 
ing Powder, one teaspoonful salt, two tablespoon- 
fuls butter or lard and one glass of milk. Reserve 
a small portion of the flour as the whole may not 
be needed. Thoroughly mix powder, salt and 
butter through the remainder; add milk; divide the 
dough in two parts, roll each into a sheet. Do not 
use more than one quart of flour, rather less. 
Place the two sheets in a tin (jelly cake tin) with 
bits of butter between, to make them separate 
easily after baking. Have a hot oven and let it 
bake twenty or twenty-five minutes. Immediately 
separate the layers; spread the under one with but- 
ter and fruit previously cut and sweetened; place 
on this the other layer crust side down; spread this 
with butter and berries some of which may be left 
whole for appearance' sake. If eaten while hot 
and with cream poured over, this dish will be rel- 
ished by an epicure. A hot oven, use of as little 



48 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

flour as possible and expeditiousness are required 
conditions for success. Preserved pineapple or 
sliced peaches are equally delicious, used in place 
of strawberries. 

INDIAN PUDDING. 
Stir seven tablespoonfuls Indian meal in a quart 
of boiling milk; add one teaspoonful salt, one of 
ginger, a cup of chopped suet, one-half of a nutmeg 
grated, one cup of either sugar or molasses and 
one egg; or the egg may be omitted. 

DAINTY PUDDING, WITH WINE SAUCE. 
One cup sugar, two eggs, one-half cup cold 
water, butter the size of an egg, one and one-half 
cups of flour and two teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

BANANA AND ORANGE DESSERT. 
Slice bananas with enough oranges to give a 
flavor and decided acidity; make a custard of one- 
half pint milk heated to boiling; add one quarter 
cup sugar and one tablespoonful cornstarch mixed, 
salt. Let cook; cool, and pour over the fruit. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
One quart of milk, three eggs, three tablespoon- 
fuls^tapioca, one-half cup (scant) of sugar, one- 
quarter rind of lemon, salt. Soak the tapioca in 
cold water over night; in the morning, drain off 
any water that may remain; boil the tapioca in the 
milk with the sugar, salt and lemon rind, for fifteen 



IN COOKERY. 49 

minutes; remove the rind; add beaten egg yolks; 
pour into a dish and bake fifteen minutes. Make a 
meringue, by thoroughly beating the whites of the 
eggs; add three tablespoonfuls of sugar and spread 
over the pudding; place in the oven again till of a 
delicate brown. Sufficient for six dishes. 

PRINCESS PUDDING. 
One pint of bread crumbs, one quart of milk, 
one cup. of sugar and yolks of three eggs. Bake, 
and when cool, spread a layer of tart jelly over it; 
beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; add one 
scant cup of sugar, spread this over the jelly and 
brown slightly. Sufficient for eight dishes. 

PLUM PUDDING. 
One cup suet chopped fine, one cup raisins 
chopped, one cup currants and- citron mixed, one 
egg, one cup of sweet milk, one-half cup molasses, 
three and one-half cups of flour, salt and one tea- 
spoonful soda. Steam three hours. The egg can 
be omitted. 

GERMAN PUFFS. 
One cup milk, one egg, one cup flour, salt, tea- 
spoonful melted butter. Bake thirty minutes This 
quantity will fill five small earthen cups. They 
should be well greased. The pudding will puff up 
above the cups r Serve with wine sauce. 
7 



50 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

RICE PUDDING. 

One teacupful of rice, two quarts of milk, seven 
tablespoonfuls sugar, one teaspoonful salt, butter 
the size of an egg", a dust of nutmeg. Soak the rice in 
half the milk two hours, then add the remainder 
of the milk and other ingredients. Bake two hours 
or less, only until the rice is creamy. One-half 
the quantities makes sufficient for five dishes, 
bird's nest pudding. 

Pare, halve and core a number of tart apples, 
such as will cook quickly. Cover the bottom of a 
tin baking dish with apples, having greased it, and 
pour over the apples a batter made of one egg, one 
cup of milk, one cup of flour, salt. Serve with 
butter and sugar. 

SNOW PUDDING. 

Soak one ounce of Cooper's Gelatine in one-half 
cup of cold water until dissolved; then pour on one 
pint of boiling water; add one cup of sugar, the 
juice and grated rind of one lemon and the juice ofone 
orange. Stir until the gelatine and sugar are all 
dissolved. Should the gelatine not dissolve per- 
fectly, place the dish in a pan of hot water for a 
few minutes. Strain this mixture into a large bowl 
and set in a cold place. When it begins to con- 
geal, beat with an egg-beater until it is white and 
stiff. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth 
and add to the gelatine; mix the whole well to- 



IN COOKERY. 5 I 

gether. Rinse a mould in cold Mater; pour the 
pudding into it. Place on ice or in a cold place 
for a few hours. At serving time, dip the mould in 
warm water, then wipe dry and turn the pudding 
on a flat dish; pour a soft custard around, or serve 
in a pretty pitcher. 

Custard for Snow Pudding. 
One pint of milk one cup sugar, salt, yolks of 
three eggs and flavoring. 

BAKED SWliET APPLES. 
Core the apples but do not pare them; place in 
a baking dish and add a little water. If the water 
cooks off, add a little more to prevent burning. 
Serve with sugar and cream. 

PIE CRUST. 
Twelve ounces of butter to sixteen ounces flour, 
one teaspoonful sugar, nearly one cup of ice water. 
The butter should be thoroughly chilled. Put it 
in the flour and chop until the pieces are no larger 
than peas. Add sufficient ice water to make a 
stiff dough, mixing with a fork. Turn out on a 
moulding board, (a marble slab is better for it is 
colder), and with the rolling-pin flatten it; roll it out 
lengthwise one-half inch thick, and fold. Place 
the dough in a napkin and lay on the ice if it is soft 
and oily. If not, roll in the opposite direction 
and fold. Roll and fold once more, making three 



52 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

times. Then if the dough is still cold, roll in all 
directions, cover tin pie plate, prick the crust to 
allow the air to escape. Put parafine paper over 
it, and lay on bread crumbs to keep the crust down, 
bake without the filling. For two crusts; cover 
the tin and lay in an old napkin, cover with an- 
other crust and bake, then remove the upper crust 
and napkin, fill, and replace the crust. Cook fruit 
separately. Temperature of the oven should be 
335 degrees. 

PUFF PASTE. 

One-half pound of butter to one-half pound of 
flour. Dairy butter is better for puff paste because 
it is more solid. Place the butter between two 
folds of a napkin and knead with a spoon to make 
elastic. Take one-eighth of the butter and mix 
with all the flour using a fork. Into this paste put 
the beaten white of an egg and sufficient ice water 
to make a stiff dough. Knead until full of air bub- 
bles. Rollout lengthwise, have plenty of flour 
underneath and keep it brushed off the top. Put 
the remainder of the butter on this paste, fold and 
lay on the ice. Always roll lengthwise. Roll 
and fold six times, placing on the ice between each 
roll. 

Roll out one-half inch thick; cut out with cookie 
cutter and with something smaller but of the 
same shape, press partly through the middle and 



IN COOKERY. 53 

bake, after which remove the center and fill with 
sweetmeats or meat. Enough Pie Crust or Puff 
Paste can be made at one time for several pies, 
using as mix'i as is required for one and putting 
the rest on ice, wrapped to keep it moist. Do not 
roll up any scraps, but fold. 

MINCE MEAT. 
Two pounds lean beef boiled and when cold 
chopped fine, one pound beef suet chopped, five 
pounds of apples, pared and chopped, three pounds 
raisins seeded, two pounds of currants, three- 
quarters of a pound of citron, two talbespoonfuls 
of ground cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls ground 
mace, one nutmeg grated, one tablespoonful 
ground clove, one tablespoonful ground allspice, 
one tablespoonful salt, two and one-half pounds of 
sugar and three pints of cider, or two and one-half 
pints of cider and one-half pint brandy. 

STRAWBERRY PIE. 
Line a tin pie plate with crust and bake follow- 
ing the directions given in "Pie Crust." When 
baked fill with strawberries which have been cook- 
ed in a syrup made of one-half cup of water and 
one cup of sugar, adding one teaspoonful arrowroot 
to a pint of juice for any fruit pie. Serve with 
whipped cream if desired. 



54 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

ECCLES PIE. 
Cook together figs, prunes and raisins; fill patties 
with this. The paste may be rolled into sheets 
and marked into squares before baking, then can 
be broken or cut out and a spoonful of the mixture 
dropped on each square. 

CHEESK STRAWS. 

Rollout paste in a thin sheetand sprinkle heavily 
with Parmesan or domestic cheese, also a little 
cayenne; fold and roll again; cut in very narrow 
strips and bake. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

Four eggs, one quart milk, four tablespoonfuls 
sugar, salt, flavor with nutmeg or any other flavor- 
ing preferred. Avoid baking so long as to make the 
custard watery. 

SQUASH PIE. 

Pare, cut in pieces and steam the squash, when 
cooked put through a vegetable strainer; then for 
one pie, take one-half pound of squash, one even 
teaspoonful salt, one egg, one tablespoonful corn- 
starch, six tablespoonfuls sugar, one-half table- 
spoonful ginger, or more, according to taste; mix, 
then add one pint of milk. Sweet Potato squash 
or the Hubbard is preferable. 

LEMON CREAM. 
The juice and grated rind of one lemon, one cup 



IN COOKERY. 5 5 

sugar, one tablespoonful cornstarch, one egg, table- 
spoonful butter, one large cup of boiling water 
or one and one-half cups medium size. Can cook 
the mixture until thick and put between two crusts 
previously baked, or put between two crusts and 
bake together, or make a meringue instead of a 
top crust. 

MOCK MINCE PIE. 
Four soda crackers rolled fine, three cups water, 
one scant cup of vinegar, two cups of either sugar 
or molasses, one cup raisins, seeded and chopped, 
one tablespoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful of 
butter, salt. Put together and boil ten minutes if 
the crusts are not baked first. Boil one-half hour, 
if the crusts are baked and filled afterward. 

CREOLE COFFEE. 
One heaping teaspoonful of pulverized coffee to 
each after-dinner cofteecup; filter and flavor with 
caramel. 

GLORIOSO COFFEE. 
Dip a lump of sugar in brandy; burn off and 
drop into the coffee. 

OLD FASHIONED COFFEE. 

One cup of coffee (one-half pint), one tgg, one 

quart of boiling water. Scald the coffee pot; put 

in the coffee mixed with cgg\ add water and allow 

it to boil up three times; removing from the fire 



56 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

each time, then set back for a short time to settle. 
Use Java and Mocha. 

CARAMEL. 
Put one cup of sugar in saute pan, if sugar is very 
dry add tablespoonful of water; when sugar has 
become brown, add hot water to perfectly dissolve. 
Strain and bottle. Can be used to flavor custards, 
ice cream and "Creole Coffee." 

CHOCOLATE. 
Grate two ounces of Baker's chocolate; add one- 
half cup of sugar, one teaspoonful cornstarch and 
one pint of boiling water; cook ten minutes. When 
ready to serve add one quart of boiling milk, and 
can beat with an ^gg beater to make it foamy. 

SALTED ALMONDS. 

Remove the shells and blanch by pouring on 
them boiling water. Let them remain until the 
water cools a little, then take off the brown coats. 
Put the blanched almonds on a baking pan; pour 
over sufficient melted butter to moisten each one; 
place in the oven until brown; while still moist 
sprinkle heavily with salt. 

SALTED PEANUTS. 

If raw peanuts are used, proceed as with almonds. 
If bought already browned, remove shell and husk; 
place on pan with butter and put it in the oven to 
heat through. Take out and salt heavily. 



X. VEGETABLES. 






STEWED MACARONI. 
Break up the macaroni in any lengths pre- 
ferred and boil in water until tender. Drain; add 
butter, salt, pepper and milk to cover, Let sim- 
mer fifteen minutes and serve. 

BAKED MACARONI. 
Put the macaroni in boiling, salted water, and 
cook until tender; then put alternate layers of 
grated cheese and macaroni in a baking dish; add 
a generous piece of butter; cover with milk and 
bake until the milk is creamy. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS. 
Make a Cream Sauce; add salt, pepper and cook 
mushrooms in this five minutes. . Add-parsley if 
liked. 

CURRIED MUSHROOMS. 
Pare and remove stems; melt one tablespoonful 
butter; cook in this one tablespoonful flour; add 
four tablespoonfuls cream or milk, one scant half 
teaspoonful of curry, salt, pepper, and ^ stew the 
mushrooms in this about five minutes. Serve on 
toast. 

8 



58 



THE NEW AND THE OLD 



TO PREPARE MUSHROOMS EOR ROAST BEEF. 

Remove beef from the baking pan and into it 
put one small onion, chopped fine; cook in this fat 
one tablespoonful flour or more according to quan- 
tity of fat; add one pint of water, a can of mush- 
rooms and after taking from the fire add one tea- 
spoonful Worcestershire Sauce. Pour around meat 
on dish. 

ASPARAGUS. 
Leave a part of the stalk beneath the green 
heads; cook in boiling salted water until tender. 
Have ready slices of toasted bread, on which lay 
the asparagus after it is cooked and pour over 
alia Cream Sauce; or, if a sour sauce is preferred, 
use Hollandaise Sauce. 

KOHL RABI. 
Pare and cut in dice; cook in boiling, salted 
water until tender, perhaps half an hour, pour off 
the water and cover with a Cream Sauce. 

ESCALLOPED ONIONS. 
Cook the onions until tender in boiling, salted 
water; drain and place in an earthen baking dish, 
alternate layers of onions and bread crumbs, with 
salt, pepper and butter on each layer of onions. 
Do this until the dish is full, then cover with milk 
and bake until of a good brown color. 



IN COOKERY. 59 

TO COOK EGG PLANT. 
Cut in slices not very thick; pare, sprinkle salt 
on each slice; put under a press with a plate be- 
tween, for half an hour before cooking. When 
ready to use, dip each slice in beaten egg and then 
in bread crumbs. Cook until well browned on 
each side and the inner part is tender. Remove 
to dish which has been heated but do not place 
one slice over another, for that will destroy the 
crispness. 

STEWED CARROT. 
Pare, wash and cut in slices less than one quar- 
ter inch thick. Cook in boiling, salted water un- 
til tender. Pour off the water, and pour over the 
carrots a rich Cream Sauce, the quantity to cor- 
respond with the quantity of carrots and made in 
the proportion of one-half tablespoonful of butter 
to one tablespoonful flour. Melt the butter; add 
flour, let cook, then thin with cream or milk. 

SALSIFY. 
Scrape and cut in small pieces; cook in boiling 
salted water until tender; drain off the water and 
add milk to cover, salt, pepper, butter and a little 
flour wet with water. 

PEAS. 
Shell, and to them add just enough waterto 
keep from sticking. Most peas will cook in one- 



6o 



THE NEW AND THE OLD 



half hour. Add butter, salt and pepper. 

STRING BEANS. 

Remove a bit from each end of the bean; wash; 
then break in pieces. Put some butter or slice of 
salt bacon in the bottom of the kettle; let the 
bacon try out, then add beans with a cup of hot 
water. Let cook gently two or three hours closely 
covered. Add salt and pepper, not as much salt if 
bacon is used. 

PARSNIPS. 

Pare or scrape and cut in rings; boil until tender 
then brown each slice, using half butter and half 
lard. Serve. 

Parsnips can be boiled and mashed, adding salt 
and a piece of butter and 'served, or, the mashed 
parsnips can be made into croquttes with the 
addition of an egg and cooked in boiling fat. The 
croquettes must of course be dipped in egg and 
bread crumbs before frying. 

SPINACH. 
Thoroughly wash the spinach in several waters. 
Cook in boiling, salted water until it can easily be 
cut with a knife, leaving the kettle uncovered. 
When tender, place in colander to drain then chop 
fine. Make a Cream Sauce and heat the spinach 
in this; then serve in one dish or in separate dishes 
having on a small piece of toasted bread un- 



IN COOKERY. 6 I 

der the little mound of spinach. 

LIMA BEANS. 
Shell and wash; place in enough boiling, salted 
water to keep from sticking. Add a generous 
piece of butter, pepper and let cook until tender. 
An hour will thoroughly cook them. 

CAULIFLOWER. 
Break or cut off the little branches of cauliflower 
and put in boiling, salted water; cook until tender 
and serve with a cream sauce. 

SUCCOTASH. 
Have one-third more corn than lima beans. 
Add boiling water to half cover. Stew together 
gently for one-half hour. Add nearly one cup of 
milk, a generous piece of butter, and cook gently 
one hour. If the liquid is then too thin, add one 
teaspoonful flour wet with . water; salt and pepper; 
boil up once and serve. 

BAKED TOMATOES, OR TOMATO SCALLOP. 
Pack in an earthen baking dish alternate layers 
of tomatoes, with pepper, salt, bits of butter, and 
bread crumbs, making the last a layer of bread 
crumbs. Will bake in less than an hour. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 
Pare and cut up; stew one hour and thicken 
with flour wet with cold water, or bits of stale 



62 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

bread, or with toasted bread. Add salt, pepper 
and butter. 

BROWNED TOMATOES, EITHER RIPE OR GREEN. 
Slice tomatoes without paring - , dip in beaten egg 
and bread crumbs; cook until brown on both sides. 
The same care must be taken with these as with 
egg plant to preserve crispness. 



XI. MISCELLANEOUS— CONCLUSION 



TO CAN TOMATOES. 
Pare and cut up as for stewing; place in a granite 
or porcelain kettle, adding salt, and cook twenty 
minutes. Immediately^/ the glass fruit cans and 
close them up. Tomatoes should be canned in 
August, and no imperfect ones should be used. 
The cans should be wrapped in brown paper to en- 
tirely exclude the light or kept in a dark closet 
which should be cool and dry. By a careful ob- 
servance of these instructions, tomatoes will not 
spoil, and excel any put up in tin cans. 

TO COOK SAUSAGE. 
If the sausage is not in links, make it in small 
flat cakes; place in a saute pan and nearly half 
cover with boiling water and let boil off, having turned 
each cake in the meantime, then lightly brown 
each piece in the fat that is left in the pan. By 



IN COOKERY. 63 

cooking the sausage in this way, the meat is cooked 
through without drying, and the whole process 
consumes no more time than if the water were not 
used. 

TO ROAST PARTRIDGE. 
After the partridge is picked, singed, drawn, the 
inside scalded and dried, rub the bird over with 
salt then with flour. Commencing at the neck, 
wind a strip of old muslin, about three inches wide, 
about the entire body and fasten the end. Rub 
the surface of the cloth with butter and put into a 
hot oven. In fifteen minutes add a very little hot 
water. At the end of an hour or a little less the 
bird will be tender, juicy and brown. 

A very hot oven is required when any meat is to 
be roasted. The object being to harden the out- 
side immediately to prevent the escape of the juice. 
After this the temperature can be reduced. No 
water should be put in the pan at first, not until 
the meat has cooked fifteen or twenty minutes. 
Adding water will so moisten the hot air that the 
temperature may not be reduced. 

TO POT PIGEONS. 
For four or five pigeons, put into the kettle a 
piece of butter the size of an egg; cook in this one- 
half of a medium sized onion, then having each 
pigeon cut in half, flour each piece and lay in the 



64 THE NEW AND THE OLD 

hot butter; let brown a little and nearely cover 
with boiling water; let simmer long and slowly; 
one-half hour before serving add salt and pepper, 
and a little wine if liked, but it is better without. 
When cooked remove the pigeons from the gravy 
and thicken with flour if it is needed, though the 
gravy may be thick enough. Serve on toast with 
the gravy poured over. 

TO FRICASSEE CHICKEN. 

Have the chicken cut in pieces; place in an iron 
saute pan (or frying pan) two slices, about four 
inches long, of salt bacon. Allow this to try out 
and become very hot; then, having floured each 
piece of chicken, lay all in the hot fat to brown. 
As soon as browned a little on each side, half fill 
the pan with hot water and cover closely; place 
where it will simmer until cooked tender. A 
short time before serving, add pepper, and salt if 
needed, the bacon may have added sufficient salt. 
After removing the chicken, add a little flour if it is 
very greasy; let cook; then thin with hot water, 
when you will have a rich fricissee and not an insipid 
one, as so many are apt to be. If the flavor of 
onion is liked, a little can be cooked in the hot fat, 
before the chicken is added. 

FRENCH TONGUE. 

Trim a fresh beef tongue; do not leave too much 
of the root. Cover with boiling water; add four 



IN COOKERY. 65 

cloves, one-quarter teaspoonful ginger, a bit of gar- 
lic the size of a peppercorn. Boil until the tongue can 
be skinned; strain the stock and return the tongue, 
letting it simmer till very tender and there is about 
one pint of stock. Thicken this with browned 
flour, and ten minutes before serving add a wine- 
glass of sherry or port wine; season with salt and 
pepper. Serve the tongue garnished with sliced 
lemon and the sauce separately, or poured over the 
tongue. 

TERRAPINED CHICKEN. 
Cut up cold, roasted or boiled chicken as for salad. 
Melt one tablespoonful of butter; cook in this one 
tablespoonful flour; thin with cream or milk; add 
a wine glass of sherry, when the sauce should be of 
the consistency of cream; add salt if necessary, 
white pepper; stir in the chicken and serve hot. 

TO PRESERVE CITRON. 
Cut in slices; pare; cut in diamonds, squares or 
any preferred shape. Put in a kettle; add a dessert- 
spoonful of alum (not powdered); cover with peach 
leaves, then with boiling water. When the citron 
just comes to a boil, remove and trirow away the 
water. Take out the seeds; then to six pounds of 
fruit add five pounds of sugar, no water, two ounces 
of green ginger and two lemons, sliced. Add the 
lemons one-half hour before the cooking is com- 
9 



66 



THE NEW AND THE OLD 



plete. The syrup is ropy when cooked sufficiently. 

SOME FACTS TO BE REMEMBERED. 

To make tea or coffee do not use water which 
has stood in the kettle and been boiled repeatedly, 
but use fresh water and just as it comes to the 
boiling- point. Always scald the coffee or tea pot 
before using. 

Always put oatmeal into boiling water to cook. 

Always put vegetables in boiling salted water to 
cook. 

Corned beef or other salted meat should be put 
in cold water and fresh meat in boiling water, then 
let simmer. Hard boiling toughens meat. 

Wooden spoons should be used in cooking and 
dessert making. 

For a simple table decoration, in the absence of 
flowers, arrange the bleached feathery tops of celery 
stalks with green leaves. Dark green ivy leaves 
or geranium are preferable. 

Arrange oranges on a pretty dish and place rich 
dark green ivy leaves around and between them. 
The yellow color of the fruit will make a pleas- 
ing contrast with the green of the leaves. 



THE END. 



insriDEx:. 





I. SOUP. 


p 


Another way to make Beef Tea 7 


Macaroni Soup 


5 


Beef Tea 


6 


Mutton Soup 


4 


Black Bean Soup . 


4 


Mushroom Force Meat Balls 


6 


Bisque of Cod 


5 


Marrow Balls 


5 


Clam Soup 


3 


Ox-Tail Soup 


5 


Celery Soup 


3 


Puree of Peas 


4 


Cream of Beet Soup 


3 


Stock 


1 


Cream Soup 


3 


To Clarify Soup 


2 


Clear Amber Soup 


2 


Tomato Bisque 


6 


Consomme Royale . 


2 


Vermicelli Soup 


5 


Croutons 


6 


Vegetable Soup 


4 


Consomme Royale Custard 


2 








II 


FISH. 




Fish au Court Bouillon 


8 


Stewed Mussels . 


8 


Shad Roes 


. 8 


To Cook Halibut, Cod or Salmon 


7 




III. SAUCES. 




Brown Sauce 


. 10 


Liquid Sauce 


11 


Bread Sauce 


11 


Mushioom Sauce . 


10 


Cranberry Sauce 


11 


Maitre d'Hotel Sauce 


10 


Capre Sauce 


11 


Mustard Sauce 


11 


Cream Sauce 


9 


Orange Sauce . 


12 


Egg Sauce 


9 


Tomato Sauce 


10 


Hoilandaise Sauce (I) 


9 


Tartar Sauce . 


10 


Hollandaise Sauce (2) 


9 


Tartare Sauce 


10 


Hard Sauce 


12 






IV. 


SALAD 


DRESSINGS. 




Cream Mayonnaise 


. 13 


Oil Mayonaise 


12 


French Dressing . 


12 


Salad Dressing Stock 


12 




V. SALADS. 




A delicious Salad 


. 16 


Cabbage Salad 


14 


Cheese Salad 


16 


Devonshire Salad 


14 


Chicken Salad 


." 15 


Lettuce Salad . 


13 











VI 


INDEX 




Lobster Sa'ad 


16 


Strawberry Salad 


p 
.14 


Oyster Salad 


li 


Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad 15 


Orange Salad 


14 


Shrimp Salad 


15 


Potato Salad . 


13 


Tomato Salad 


U 


Russian Salad 


14 






V[. ENTREES 


. MJNC.IEON AND TEA DISHES. 




Brown Sauce for Breaded 


Dhops 19 


German Potato Stew 


27 


Breaded Chops 


19 


Hamburg Steak 


2 s 


Bread Patties . 


. 20 


Julienne Potatoes 


27 


Boned Chicken 


22 


Jellied Veal or Chicken 


21 


Browned Sweetbread . 


. 2J 


Lyouaise Potatoes 


•ll 


Baked Calfs Heart 


23 


Lobster Croquettes . 


l\ 


Baked Sweetbread . 


24 


Lamb's Tongue in Aspic Jellv 


•it 


Beef Kidney Ha*h 


25 


Muitou Chops a la Maiutenun 


19 


Boston Baked Beans . 


. 30 


Macaroni Croquettes 


as 


Chicken Croquettes 


17 


Maitre «t' Hotel Potatoes 


'Zl 


Codfish Balls . 


. IB 


Omelet 


•l\ 


(-ream Toast 


21 


Potato Souffle' 


27 


Clam Fritters 


24 


Potato Croquettes 


20 


Clam Chowder 


29 


Ragout of Mutton or Veal 


3l 


Creamed Oysters 


. 31 


Rice Croquettes 


2 6 


Casserole of Meat . 


18 


Stewed Lamb ('hops with Peas 


.0 


Deviled Lobster 


. IB 


Stewed Rabbit 


•i[) 


Deviled Eggs 


23 


Salmon Croquettes 


25 


Escalloped Clams 


. IB 


To Broil Steak 


23 


Escalloped Salmon 


29 


Turkey Scallop 


24 


Escalloped Oysters . 


. 31 


Vol-au-vent of Chicken 


20 


Gooloash 


29 








VII. 


BREAD 




Boston Brown Bread 


3t 


iVl nffins 


35 


Coffee Rolls 


. 33 


Rice Cake* 


35 


Corn Bread 


33 


Sour Milk Muffins 


3> 


Entire Wheat Bread 


. 3» 


Tea Biscuit 


33 


Graham Cakes . 


34 


Wheat Bread 


32 


Green Corn Cakes 


. 35 


Whigs (are like rusk) 


34 




VIII. 


CAKE. 




Apple Filling 


. 39 


Nut Cake .... 


39 


Crullers 


37 


Orange Filling 


39 


Chocolate Cake. Caramel 1 


billing 37 


Porcupine Cake 


36 


Chocolate Cake 


38 


Snow Balls 


40 


Cream Cake 


38 


Sponge Cake (1) 


36 


Cocoanut Jumbles. 


40 


Sponge Cake (2) 


41 


Fruit Cake 


. 40 


Sugar Jumbles . 


37 


Ginger Snaps 


39 


White Fruit Cake 


40 


Molasses Cake 


39 









INDEX. 


vii 


i: 


i. DESSERTS. 


p 


Angel Food 


46 


Mince Meat 


53 


Baked Sweet Apples . 


51 


Nesselrode Pudding 


44 


Bavarian Cream . 


43 


Orange Ice . . 


41 


Ulauc Mange . 


44 


Orange Baskets . 


44 


Banana and Oronge Dessert 


48 


Omelet Souffle' 


45 


Bird's Nest budding . 


50 


Old Fashioned Coffee . „ . 


55 


Cli e^e an Grattiu 


42 


Pie Crust 


51 


Coffee Mousse 


. 42 


Puff Paste 


52 


Cheese Straws 


54 


Plum Pudding 


49 


Custard Pie 


. M 


Rice Pudding 


50 


Ciiole Coffee 


55 


Pineapple Sherbet 


43 


Caramel 


56 


Princess Pudding 


49 


Chocolate. 


56 


St raw b try Mousse 


42 


Dainty Pudding 


43 


Steamed Fruit Pudding 


45 


Eccles Pie 


54 


Strawberry Short Cake 


47 


Fruit Fritters. 


. 44 


Strawberry Pie 


53 


Fruit ."-alad . 


41 


Snow Pudding 


£0 


Glorioso Coffee 


. 55 


Squash Pie . . . 


54 


German Puffs 


49 


Salted Almonds 


56 


Indian Pudding 


. '8 


Salted Peanuts 


56 


Kartauser Klose . 


46 


Tapioca Pudding 


48 


Lemon < ream Pie 


. 54 


To Make Orange or Lemon Zest 


42 


Macedoine 


43 


Waffles 


46 


Mock Mince Pie 


. 55 






X. 


VEGETABLES. 




Asparagus 


. 58 


Stewed Tomatoes 


61 


Baked Macaroni . 


57 


Succotash .... 


61 


Baked Tomatoes 


61 


Spinach . . . 


60 


Browned Tomatoes 


62 


String-beans .... 


60 


Cauliflower 


61 


Salsify .... 


59 


Curried Mushrooms 


57 


Stewed Carrots 


59 


Escallopt-a Onions . 


58 


Stewed Mushrooms . 


57 


Kohl Rabi 


58 


Stewed Macaroni . 


57 


Lima Beans . 


. 61 


To Prepare Mushrooms for Beei 


58 


Peas .... 


59 


To Cook Egg-plant . 


59 


Parsnips 


. 60 






XI. MISCELL. 




To Can Tomatoes 


62 


Terrapined Chicken 


65 


To Cook Sausage 


. 6i 


To Preserve Citron 


65 


To Roast Partridge 


. 63 


To Pot Pigeons 


63 


To Fricassee Chicken 


64 


Some Facts to be Remembered 


66 


French Tongue. 


. 64 







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